The Shirt Fabric Guide

The Shirt Fabric Guide

Shirts are the backbone of every wardrobe, but when you look closely, no two fabrics are quite the same. Some are soft and breathable, others crisp and structured, and a few luxurious but delicate. Add in the wide world of weaves (from twill to poplin to oxford) and you’ve got a lot of choice.

At T.M.Lewin, we’ve spent more than a century making shirts, so we know that there isn’t a single “best fabric for shirts”. Instead, there are fabrics that shine in certain situations. A twill shirt will keep you warm on cold days. A linen shirt will save you in summer. A poplin shirt offers clean, professional polish. And versatile oxford sits right at the centre. Adaptable, breathable, and dependable.

We use only natural fibres and carefully selected blends, because comfort and longevity matter. Natural fibres not only feel better against your skin, but they’re also more sustainable than synthetics. That’s why our shirts are made from fabrics we trust.

Our Fabrics

When we design a shirt, we start with the fabric. Every material has unique properties, and we’ve chosen the ones that give you the best balance of style, comfort, and durability.

Twill Shirts

Twill is one of our favourites.  It's a classic weave that delivers durability and structure. You’ll recognise it by the diagonal rib pattern, which makes it feel substantial but still smooth.

  • Pros: Substantial feel and drapes beautifully. Warm and slightly heavier than poplin, which makes it perfect for autumn/winter or cooler offices.
  • Cons: Twill can be less breathable in hot weather, and its heavier weight isn’t always ideal for layering in summer.
  • Best for: Business settings, formal occasions, and colder months.

Twill is our best-selling fabric for a reason.  It holds its shape, feels substantial, and always looks smart.

Oxford Shirts

The oxford weave is a little more relaxed, thanks to its basket-like texture. It’s thicker than poplin but more casual in feel.

  • Pros: Durable, breathable, and versatile. It’s a shirt that works in both smart and smart-casual wardrobes.
  • Cons: Slightly heavier, so less comfortable in very hot climates.
  • Best for: Everyday wear, business-casual outfits, and layering under blazers or knitwear.

The oxford shirt has long been a menswear staple because it adapts effortlessly. We particularly like it in pale blue or white for year-round wear.

Poplin Shirts

Poplin is defined by its tightly woven, fine yarns that create a smooth finish.

  • Pros: Crisp, lightweight, and breathable. It’s easy to iron and holds sharp lines.
  • Cons: Because the weave is fine, poplin doesn’t insulate well in winter and can show wrinkles faster than twill.
  • Best for: Formal shirts, summer wear, and smart business outfits.

Poplin has enjoyed a fashion revival in recent years across menswear and womenswear alike and it’s no surprise. It’s clean, modern, and versatile.

Pima Cotton Shirts

Pima cotton is one of the finest cottons available. Its extra-long fibres produce smoother, stronger yarns.

  • Pros: Exceptionally soft, durable, and resistant to fraying and pilling. Colours stay vibrant longer.
  • Cons: Higher cost than standard cotton, and less widely available.
  • Best for: Premium shirts and long-lasting wardrobe staples.

We use Pima cotton when we want a shirt to feel elevated without losing practicality.

Linen Shirts

For warm weather, nothing beats linen. Made from the flax plant, it’s known for breathability and natural texture.

  • Pros: Exceptionally cool, lightweight, and breathable. The relaxed texture adds charm.
  • Cons: Creases easily, less insulating, and can feel rougher than cotton at first wear.
  • Best for: Summer holidays, hot commutes, and casual offices.

We love linen’s lived-in character, and we’ll often mix it into blends for softer, more practical shirts.

The Best Shirt Fabric

There’s no single winner, just fabrics that excel in different situations:

  • Twill: Best for structure, formality, and colder weather.
  • Oxford: Best for smart-casual flexibility.
  • Poplin: Best for crispness and lightweight wear.
  • Linen: Best for hot climates.
  • Pima cotton: Best for premium comfort and durability.

Cotton remains the all-rounder, which is why it’s the foundation of most of our shirts.

Other Shirt Fabric Types

Wool

Used less often in shirts but excellent in cooler weather. Types like merino wool or cashmere can make soft, insulating shirts or polos. (See our knitwear for more wool options.)

Hemp

A sustainable option gaining traction. Historically coarse, but new processing methods are making hemp shirting smoother. Still niche and expensive.

Silk

Luxurious and lustrous, but impractical for daily shirts — it creases easily, shows perspiration, and is costly. Better suited for ties.

Lyocell / Bamboo Fibre

Marketed as eco-friendly alternatives. Soft, drapey, and good substitutes for silk in casual shirts, though production processes can vary in sustainability.

Synthetic Fibres

We don’t use synthetics in our formal shirts, but you’ll see them elsewhere.

  • Nylon: Strong and stretchy, used in activewear. Too clingy and hot for formal shirts.
  • Polyester: Cheap, durable, and wrinkle-resistant, but lacks breathability and holds odours.
  • Spandex: Useful in blends for stretch, but uncomfortable in high amounts.
  • Rayon/Viscose: Semi-natural, with a silk-like feel. Affordable but environmentally taxing and delicate when wet.

Fabric Blends

Blends combine strengths: cotton–spandex for stretch, wool–nylon for durability, or cotton–polyester for wrinkle resistance. Some are smart, some are shortcuts. Our focus is blends that genuinely improve comfort and performance.

Shirt Fabric Weaves

Weaves matter as much as fibre. Beyond twill, Oxford, and poplin, here are a few others:

  • Dobby weave: Creates intricate textures. Lightweight but prone to wrinkling.
  • Herringbone weave: Durable with a V-pattern, excellent for winter.
  • Chambray weave: Soft and lightweight, perfect for casual summer shirts.
  • End-on-End weave: Two-colour weave for subtle texture; lightweight but less stable.

Each has its place, but twill, oxford, and poplin remain the most versatile foundations.

Shirt Fabrics: FAQs

What is the best fabric for shirts?

Cotton is the most versatile, with poplin, Oxford, and twill covering most needs. Linen is best for summer, and Pima cotton is the premium choice.

What is poplin shirt fabric?

Poplin is a tightly woven cotton fabric with a smooth finish. It’s lightweight, breathable, and ideal for formal shirts.

Are polyester shirts good?

Polyester is cheap and durable, but it’s not breathable, can trap odours, and doesn’t feel as premium as natural fabrics. We prefer cotton for comfort and longevity.

Is linen good for shirts?

Yes, linen is excellent in hot weather thanks to its breathability. It does crease more easily, but that’s part of its relaxed charm.

What’s the difference between twill and oxford shirts?

Twill has a diagonal rib and a smooth, formal finish. Oxford has a basket weave and a slightly more casual texture.

Which Shirt Fabric is Right for You?

If you’re after one shirt that does it all, choose twill for everyday reliability. For premium comfort, invest in Pima cotton. For summer, nothing beats linen.

That’s why our shirt collection spans all these fabrics; your wardrobe should adapt as easily as you do.

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