The Knitwear Fabric Guide

The Knitwear Fabric Guide

Knitwear is one of those wardrobe staples we all reach for, but not all knit fabrics are created equal. From natural fibres like merino wool and cotton, to luxury options like cashmere and alpaca wool, right through to synthetic fibres like acrylic or modacrylic, every material has its strengths and limitations.

At T.M.Lewin, we’ve spent years working with fabrics, and we know there’s no single “best knitwear fabric”. The truth is, the right choice depends on where you’ll wear it, how often, and what you need from it. Some fabrics are lightweight and breathable, others trap warmth, and some balance both.

Our approach is simple: we use natural fibres and carefully chosen blends that combine comfort, performance and longevity. That’s why our knitwear collection focuses on fabrics like merino wool, cotton, and cotton–viscose blends. Fibres that feel good, wear well, and work for everyday life.

Our Fabrics

We only use natural fibres and carefully chosen blends. That’s not by accident. Every fabric we select has to meet our standards for quality, comfort, and versatility. Here’s how we think about the materials in our knitwear range.

Merino Wool Knitwear

Merino wool is one of the most versatile fibres we work with, and it’s a favourite for good reason.

  • Softness: Merino fibres are finer than traditional wool, which makes them smooth against the skin rather than scratchy.
  • Temperature regulation: Merino naturally keeps you warm in winter and cool in summer by trapping or releasing heat as needed.
  • Breathability and odour resistance: Wool fibres wick away moisture and resist odours, so you can wear merino multiple times before washing.
  • Sustainability: As a natural, biodegradable fibre, merino is also an environmentally responsible choice.

The drawbacks? Merino can be more expensive, and it does need gentler care (avoid high-heat washing and never tumble dry). But if you want knitwear that works across seasons, merino wool jumpers and polos are hard to beat.

Cotton Knitwear

  • Breathable and lightweight: Perfect for warmer months or layering under jackets.
  • Durable and easy-care: Cotton knits can withstand frequent washing and are less fussy than wool.
  • Versatile styling: Works well for cardigans, crew necks and weekend pieces.

The trade-off is that cotton doesn’t insulate as well as wool, so it’s less suited to the depths of winter. But for breathable layering and easy wear, cotton knitwear is always reliable.

We love cotton for its casual, everyday appeal.

Cotton-Viscose Blend Knitwear

Sometimes we add viscose to cotton to bring out extra qualities.

  • Softness & drape: Viscose has a silky handle and gives cotton knitwear a smoother finish.
  • Sheen: Adds a subtle lustre, making it look slightly more refined — great for smart casual wear.
  • Shape retention: Helps garments keep their structure over time.
  • Affordability: More cost-effective than pure wool options.

On the flip side, cotton–viscose blends don’t insulate as well as wool and can be slightly less durable long-term. But for lightweight, everyday knits with a polished finish, they hit the sweet spot.

The Best Knitwear Fabric

There’s no single “best fabric”, it depends on what you need.

  • Merino wool is our most versatile option: wear it year-round, dress it up or down, and enjoy its natural performance.
  • Cotton is perfect for lighter layers and casual settings.
  • Cotton–viscose sits comfortably in the middle: soft, polished, and easy to wear day to day.

That’s why we prioritise these fibres in our knitwear collection.

Other Knitwear Fabrics

We often get asked about other materials. Here’s how they compare.

Cashmere Wool

The ultimate luxury: exceptionally soft, warm, and lightweight. But cashmere is also delicate, prone to pilling, and very expensive. Beautiful, yes — but less versatile than merino.

Lambswool

Softer than regular wool and very warm, but bulkier. It can pill more easily and lacks the fine versatility of merino.

Alpaca Wool

Silky, hypoallergenic, and very insulating. Lightweight for the warmth it provides. But it’s less elastic, so garments can lose shape, and prices run high.

Mohair

Known for its sheen and warmth. Lightweight but can feel scratchy. Often blended with other fibres.

Silk

Sometimes blended into knitwear for softness and shine. Luxurious, but delicate and expensive, so rarely practical for everyday knits.

Synthetic Knitwear Fabrics

We avoid synthetics in our main knitwear range, but it’s worth knowing what they are.

Acrylic

Cheap, warm, and commonly used in jumpers. But it lacks breathability, can feel itchy, and tends to pill quickly.

Modacrylic

A softer take on acrylic, but still suffers from poor breathability and comfort.

Nylon (Polyamide)

Often blended to add stretch and durability. Useful in small amounts, but uncomfortable on its own.

Polyester

Durable and cheap, but holds odours, lacks breathability, and feels plasticky.

Knitwear Blends

Blends can be clever. A little nylon in wool can improve durability, cotton–silk blends add sheen, and wool–cashmere blends balance warmth with cost. Our philosophy? Natural fibres first, with blends chosen only when they genuinely add comfort or performance.

Knit Constructions & Finishes

The fibre is only part of the story. Knit structure affects look and feel too.

  • Jersey knit: smooth and versatile, used in fine gauge pieces.
  • Rib knit: stretchy, ideal for cuffs and fitted styles.
  • Cable knit: textured, warm, and classic.
  • Waffle / honeycomb knit: breathable with a tactile finish.
  • Fine gauge vs chunky knit: fine gauge is lightweight and smart; chunky is casual and cosy.

Knitwear Fabrics: FAQs

Is merino wool better than cotton?

It depends on what you need. Merino wool is warmer, regulates temperature, and resists odours, making it ideal for year-round wear. Cotton is lighter, breathable, and durable — perfect for layering or warmer weather.

Which knitwear fabric is the warmest?

Luxury fibres like cashmere and alpaca wool are the warmest, with a soft and insulating feel. For everyday use, merino wool offers excellent warmth without bulk and works across more seasons.

Is cashmere worth the price?

Cashmere is prized for its softness and warmth, but it’s delicate, prone to pilling, and very expensive. If you’re after everyday versatility, merino wool is often the better choice. For special pieces, cashmere is a luxury option.

Why avoid acrylic knitwear?

Acrylic is affordable and warm, but it doesn’t breathe, can feel itchy, and tends to pill quickly. Natural fibres like wool or cotton are usually more comfortable and longer-lasting.

What’s the best knitwear fabric for sensitive skin?

Alpaca wool is naturally hypoallergenic, while cotton is gentle and breathable. Merino wool can also be comfortable for many people, thanks to its fine fibres.

Which knitwear fabric is most versatile?

Merino wool is the all-rounder: smart enough for the office, casual enough for weekends, breathable in summer, and insulating in winter.

Which Knitwear Fabric Is Right for You?

If you’re after a single do-it-all option, go for merino wool.  It's versatile, breathable and smart enough for office wear. For relaxed weekends or layering in warmer months, cotton is ideal. If you want a softer, more polished finish, cotton–viscose blends are a great choice.

Luxury fibres like cashmere or alpaca wool offer indulgence, but they’re less practical for everyday use. Synthetics like acrylic might be affordable, but they compromise on comfort and breathability — which is why we avoid them.

Ready to feel the difference for yourself? Explore our knitwear collection and see how the right fabric can transform your wardrobe.

Back to blog