
The Ultimate Shirt & Formalwear Guide
1. Types of Shirts and When to Wear Them
Every shirt has its place. Knowing when to reach for which is the mark of a well-dressed man.
The Formal Shirt
Crisp, plain, and timeless. Perfect for office days, interviews, and client meetings. A classic formal white shirt should be in every man's wardrobe.
The Smart Casual Shirt
Smart casual shirts are more relaxed but are still polished. Often in fabrics like Pima Cotton and Oxford with subtle patterns and more colour variety than formal shirts.
The Dress (Evening) Shirt
Dress shirts, sometimes known as evening shirts, are designed for black-tie events, these feature pleated fronts, wing collars, and French cuffs.
As a rule: the plainer the shirt, the more formal it reads. A classic white twill is the benchmark of dress codes from boardroom to ballroom. Patterns and colour shift you towards smart-casual.
Read next: How to Dress for Every Occasion
2. Fit First: The Secret to Looking Sharper
The right fit transforms how a shirt feels — and how you carry yourself.
Fit options:
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Fitted: Streamlined and flattering for lean frames.
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Slim Fit: Our best-seller. Modern and balanced, suitable for most body types.
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Regular Fit: Offers more room through the chest and waist for comfort.
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Super Fitted: Broader across shoulders with a trim waist.
Quick checks:
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Shoulder seams align with your shoulders.
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Buttons sit flat with no pulling.
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Sleeves end at the wrist bone.
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The collar closes comfortably without restriction.
See also: The Shirt Fit Guide
3. Fabric Fundamentals: Poplin, Twill, Oxford & Beyond
Fabric dictates not only comfort, but also the mood of your outfit.
Fabric | Feel | Best For |
---|---|---|
Poplin | Smooth, crisp, and lightweight | Everyday formalwear |
Twill | Subtle diagonal weave, soft drape | Business and cooler weather |
Oxford | Textured and relaxed | Smart-casual looks |
Linen | Lightweight and relaxed | Hot weather |
Pima Cotton | Luxurious to touch | Smart casual looks |
Light, breathable poplins work year-round; heavier twills and Oxfords bring structure and warmth to cooler months.
Learn more: The Shirt Fabric Guide
4. Collar & Cuff Styles Explained
The collar frames your face and anchors your tie. Get it right and everything else follows.
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Point Collar: Classic and versatile; ideal with narrow ties.
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Semi-Spread Collar: The modern all-rounder — pairs beautifully with a Windsor knot.
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Cutaway Collar: Confident and contemporary, perfect with wider ties.
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Button-Down Collar: Relaxed refinement for business-casual days.
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Wing Collar: Strictly formal, reserved for eveningwear.
Choose a collar that balances your face shape and complements the occasion.
There are three main cuffs to choose from:
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Rounded Single Cuff: A classic choice, seen on most shirts.
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Mitred Single Cuff: A modern choice, distinguished by a 45° cut.
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Double Cuff: Also known as "French cuffs". Designed to be fastened with cufflinks.
Explore: The Collar & Cuff Guide
5. How to Pair Shirts, Suits & Ties
The art of dressing well lies in contrast and coordination, not matching:
Colour:
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White: the universal option.
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Light blue: smart, versatile, and subtly softens darker suits.
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Pink or checked: confident but considered, best under navy or grey.
Pattern:
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Patterned shirts need a simple tie. Contrasting patterns can work, but it's challenging.
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Plain shirts give freedom for texture. We recommend a knit or grenadine.
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Avoid identical scales (stripe-on-stripe, check-on-check, etc).
Texture:
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Smooth shirts = textured ties.
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Textured shirts = smooth ties.
Pocket squares should complement your tie, not copy it. And always consider proportion. Less is more.
Read more: How a Suit Should Fit and How to Tie a Tie
6. What to Wear to the Office: Formal vs Business Casual vs Smart Casual
Formal
Business Casual
Smart Casual
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Polos, casual shirts, and chinos are your go-to items.
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Keep everything neutral. Avoid logos or patterns.
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Jeans and trainers may be acceptable, but check the dress code first
When uncertain, go one level more formal. It’s easier to relax an outfit than elevate it.
Further reading: What to Wear to the Office
7. How to Measure Yourself for the Perfect Fit
A little precision goes a long way.
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Neck: Around the base, one finger inside the tape.
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Chest: At the fullest part.
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Waist: Where your trousers sit naturally.
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Seat: Around the widest point of your hips.
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Sleeve: From shoulder seam to wrist bone.
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Shoulders: Seam to seam across the back.
Check against our size guide. When in doubt, size up and tailor.
Get the full guide: How to Measure for a Shirt
8. The Best Shirts for Work
Your work shirts should balance professionalism, comfort, and longevity. Build a rotation that can handle the week gracefully.
Essential colours:
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White: For meetings and key presentations.
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Pale Blue: Everyday versatility.
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Subtle Patterns: Fine stripes or checks add variety under a navy or grey suit.
Recommended fabrics:
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Poplin: Crisp and cooling. Ideal year-round.
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Twill: Soft with structure. Perfect for cooler months.
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Oxford: More relaxed for comfort. Great especially when travelling.
Rotate between at least five shirts for a full working week, and always keep a fresh white option ready for last-minute formal occasions.
Shop the collection: The Best Shirts for Work: Fabric, Fit & Style Tips
9. How to Style Navy and Grey Suits
These are the two pillars of a modern wardrobe; versatile, refined, and seasonless.
The Navy Suit
Pair with:
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White or pale blue shirt.
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Burgundy or navy tie.
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Brown or oxblood shoes.
Style note: Navy is your most adaptable option. It suits every skin tone, works across dress codes, and carries colour gracefully, from pastel pink to deep green.
The Grey Suit
Pair with:
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White, blue, or pastel shirts.
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Navy, forest, or patterned ties.
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Black or dark brown shoes.
Style note: Grey offers a touch more softness than navy, which is ideal for spring, summer, and lighter interiors. Add texture (a twill shirt, a knit tie) for depth.
Read more: How to Style a Grey Suit and How to Style a Navy Suit
10. The Finishing Touch: Accessories That Complete the Look
A refined shirt deserves equally considered accessories.
Ties: Keep proportions balanced with your collar and lapel width.
Pocket Squares: Complement, don’t match, your tie.
Cufflinks: Simple silver or enamel by day; polished metal or onyx by night.
Belts & Shoes: Match tones, but don't worry about exact colour duplication e.g. brown belt, with slightly darker brown shoes is okay.
Small details, done right, make a world of difference.
Shop accessories.
FAQ: Formalwear Essentials
Q1: What’s the most formal shirt style?
A plain white dress shirt with a stiff collar and French cuffs, typically worn with black tie or morning dress.
Q2: How often should I replace work shirts?
Inspect every 6 months for collar wear or thinning fabric. A good rotation (five to seven shirts) extends lifespan significantly.
Q3: Can I wear colour to a formal event?
Stick to white or very pale tones for strictly formal occasions. Light blue or soft texture works for semi-formal settings.
Q4: How do I avoid collar gaping?
Choose the correct neck size; it should be snug but not tight, and ensure your tie knot fills the collar space.
Q5: Are non-iron shirts worth it?
Yes, especially for busy professionals or frequent travellers. TM Lewin’s crease-resistant fabrics combine convenience with a soft hand feel.
Q6: Can I wear a button-down collar with a suit and tie?
Yes, but keep it relaxed, this would be more appropriate for business casual than formal.
Q7: How should I wash my shirts?
Follow the washing instructions on the shirt, as this can vary across different shirts and fabrics.
Q8: What colours work best under navy and grey suits?
White and pale blue are failsafe. Add soft pink or fine pattern for subtle variation.
Q9: What tie knot suits which collar?
Four-in-hand for point collars, half-Windsor for semi-spread, full Windsor for cutaway collars.
Q10: What’s the ideal shirt rotation?
Five for the working week is a great start. Rest shirts between wears to preserve shape and freshness.
In Closing
From collar to cuff, the details define the man. A well-made, perfectly fitted shirt doesn’t shout, it speaks quietly, but unmistakably, of confidence and care.
Start refining your wardrobe with our shirt and suit collection, and rediscover the pleasure of dressing well, every single day.
Because life isn’t perfect, but your shirt can be.